Your key to success: La Sportiva Miuras!

I have climbed in the miuras for a year now, they have no doubt been a big impact on my success in climbing this year, If your trying to decide wether the La Sportiva Muiras are the right shpes for you, please look no further.

Are the La Sportiva miuras Good? Yes! the miuras are seriously good shoes, they have been one of the top choices for a performance shoe for 10 years now. They also happen to be my favourite shoe for climbing near vertical and sport.

So to give you the the simple answer, Yes these shoes are seriously good.

  • They excell on small edges, pockets and ‘Technical’ climbing.
  • There really comfortable and dont need to be tight for performance climbing.
  • They might be the shoes for you if you want to stand on small edges and feel solid, or climb in them all day without getting sore feet.

But Let me develop and illustrate WHY exctly there so good

I will also illustrate the down sides of these shoes,

my mission is to help you make informed decision, not just sell you the shoe.

Firstly, heres my review video if you would rather listen!

lets Adress all the topics covered in this Review

  • Style
  • Fit
  • Rubber
  • Support
  • Features
  • Weaknesses

Style

So I briefly mentioned the miuras are incredible for gently over-hung climbs and small edges.

But why?

The miuras have a more solid rubber and construction style than a lot of climbing shoes.

The midsole is also quite solid, being one piece of rubber that runs from toe to heel reducing the bend in the shoe.

This supports your foot and turns even the smallest edges into PLATFORMS for you to stand on.

It holds an almost nuetral shape with your foot in, while it does hold a nice concave shape in the middle of the toe box its certainly not an aggresive shoe.

Making it versatile and perfect for outdoors and comfort while also not sacrificing on comfort.

Its suited mostly from vertical to medium overhangs.

This isnt the best illustration but the miuras on the left can be not as great on overhung Foot Holds where the toe needs to really get in the hold.

You can even see there is a bit of a gap inbetween the shoe and hold.

The stiff nuetral shape doesnt lend them to achieving this as well as the scarpa VS-Rs on the right.

The scarpas (right photo) are much more downturned and allow for the toe to get right into more overhung footholds.

but even indoor bouldering i choose to wear them over a pair of shoes DESIGNED for competitions / Bouldering.

I can climb on the 45 degree boards at my local in them, but its much harder then when i wear my scarpa VS-Rs on the board.

The miuras were designed to be a ‘All day’ outdoor climbing machine and they certainly are.

The Miuras are also amazing for slab, im quite sure most of my hardest slabs have been in them., this is due to the ‘XS edge 2’ Rubber.

Even my personal hardest redpoint I chose to wear these over my newer, more aggresive and rubberised shoe because the support and comfort they give is so valuable for trying hard.

Fit

these shoes are Definetly Asymetric, meaning they are really ‘twisted’ and point more in the direction of your big toe, while this adds extra power it can be quite uncomfortable if your foot is quite symmetrical or not shaped like the rubber in the image.

See my foot shape explenation here.Opens in a new tab.

Essentially, the shoes are quite asymetric, meaning they push all the power into the toe with a curved shape.

This is an incredible feeling if your feet are this shape, but it your feet are more rectangular or broad at the toes you will just feel uncomfortable in them.

Unfortunately if your foot is more ‘B’ shaped, they will be pretty uncomfortable on your pinkies as they werent really designed for you…sorry.

The Scarpa VS-R’s might be more your shoe, see my review here!

The shoes are certainly downturned, but not very aggresively at all, the toe almost points up on my pair. The toe is very pointed, designed to push all the power through your big toe.

I really like the toe of these shoes because they allow the toes to sit at a more nuetral and relaxed angle, without sacrificing power because of the thick rubber.

Im actually mytified how they were designed, the toe box holds a concave shape in them, which just perfectly absorbs holds.

No other shoe ive had was able to maintain this natural shape, let alone after years of abuse!

This has its downsides though too, and i find they are often not that reliable at severely overhung terrain like boulders or the boards.

But these shoes were not designed for that, there build for outdoors, long crag days and cracks, there had to be a sacrfice to become the specialised machines they are!

Rubber

The Miuras are crafted with la sportivas XS Grip Egde meaning there quite a stiff shoe.

The Edge rubber was designed not to deform under the pressure of foot holds.

This gives them the solid feeling on small edges which makes me want to wear them every time I climb, but also means they sometimes underperform on really overhung terrain where soft shoes is most suitable.

The rubber works by resisting deforming to holds, making them feel SOLID on small edges where a softer shoe would slip.

Having a solid rubber means you can weight small edges with your fully body weight and feel completely secure in them.

Especially when it matters like a hard redpoint or traditional climbing where a foot slip could be quite consequential!

If your used to soft shoes you will have bit of a shock moving into a pair of miuras.

They may feel ‘insensitive’ or a bit ‘unresponsive’ like they dont absorb the holds as much as you are used too in a soft pair.

This is because they simply behave different, and once you get used to them you will be unstoppable!

They really excell outdoors where its mostly small edges and long pitches.

If your a trad climber and want to feel more secure on your feet, these are probably the most suitable shoes in my opion!

Support

The shoes have one continuous plate of rubber from toe to heel, giving the shoe proper structural integrity! they hold your foot level and put all your weight straight through the toes.

The stiffer rubber fully supports your body weight on bewilderingly small edges. This makes them amazing for standing on small edges, but also provides comfort and support over HOURS.

This makes them a popular choice amongst big wall climbers because on a long day of climbing you need a shoe that wil be comfortable enough to climb thousands of feet in, and take the weight off your feet as much as possible with there solid construction.

The massive heel strap there at the back is great for keeping your heel solid, but since my shoes are a bit oversized for comfort the heel isnt as good as that of my scarpas.

Features

The miuras I have are Velcros but you can get laces too. while the option for laces or velcros is appealing to a lot of people who have a preference or desire for more custom fit it Sacrifices toe rubber.

This means while they grip really well indoors, there lack of toe rubber does create bit of a weakness in todays current indoor climbing climate.

If you dont care about indoor climbing or Bat hangs than you shoulnt worry theres no toe rubber, its just as a indoor boulderer i often have to wear my Scarpas because these shoes lack the rubber.

This also caused me to wear almost through the strap on the toe because i would toe hook in them anyway and it ground that fabric above the buckle. you can see in the photo above.

The Shoes also have Rubber coming right up on the edges of the shoes, showing they were designed for crack climbing too, and provide a comfortable, solid feeling shoe.

Many trad climbers love these shoes because they can oversize them to wear with socks and they are very comfortable crack shoes.

With my limeted crack experience i can vouch for how comfortable they are. this has a lot to do with the toes bieng more nuetral in the shoe.

I hope this comparison shoes how a more nuetral shape is super comfortable, espesially when compared with The more aggresive Scarpas on the left which are pretty uncomfortable for crack climbing!

Click here For my Scarpa ReviewOpens in a new tab.

Weaknesses

There are a few ‘problems’ with my miuras but most of these are actually trade offs, as one shoe cant be good at everything.

Firstly, the no toe rubber situation, i like how adjustable the shoes are, but i dont really think i need all those velcroes, if the toe section was covered with stretchy fabric like the Tenaya Oasis, then they could have a rubberised toe without sacrificing too much adjustability.

We all know now the shoes are solid, in construction and materials, and ive actually had a bit of uncomfort from the heel rubber on the shoes because its actually so solid its pushing on my achilies heel quite persistently. it was getting a bit uncomfortable, thankfully it has not been an issue for a while.

Conclusion

In conclusion, yes you should treat yourself to a pair of these shoes, they are versatile and high performing, but also comfortable and supportive on longer climbs.

Check out my Recomended Shoes page for a full run down and Scarpa VS-R review.Opens in a new tab.

Thank you for Reading this review, i hope it brought you some value and insight intot the La sportiva Miuras!

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