I have been climbing in the Scarpa VS-R’s for 2 years now, and I have joined the thousands of climbers that love this shoe because they are apsolutely amazing!
Are the Scarpa vs-rs good for climbing? YES the scarpa vs-rs are an incredible shoe for climbing performance. They were desgned to be an ‘all round’ shoe built slightly softer than the orange version so there versatile and comfortable. They perform to a high standard Bouldering, Lead climbing and even on slab!
The VS-R’s have become my ‘go-to’ shoe because I know they perform so well and wont let me down on any terrain I choose. Now I know how good they are, I am just going to keep getting them resoled or replaced instead of trying to find anything more perfect!
Lets dive into why there so good, and what does let them down...
Are the scarpa VS-R’s for you?
If you want a well fitting climbing shoe with both a solid edge for small holds, a snug heel that will not budge on moves and still soft enough to smear and climb indoors with?
If so than yes these shoes are for you!
Theres a few more things you should consider, like foot shape (we will get onto that) and wether you need a specific bouldering shoe.
These shoes were MADE for climbing in competitions meaning:
- The were made for a high level of performance
- There suited to all terrains
- Can handle new school climbing and outdoors alike
They are officially a ‘Bouldering’ specific shoe but I use them on my hardest roped ascents, including my first 8a, and they havent let me down yet!
Why are the Scarpa VS-Rs so good?
Firstly I like a more solid shoe for standing on small outdoor edges, and because this shoe was designed from the original Scarpa VS they perform really well Outdoors.
The shape and construction allows them to work flawlessly on technical routes and aggresive boulders just as well and even stick to slab.
This is because they were built with XS Grip 2 rubber, a bit softer than the rubber used on the Scarpa VS shoes making them more versatile and comfortable.
They were designed to be a ‘Competition shoe’ so they can perform to a high level on all kinds of climbing whilst still being super comfortable!
What are the Scarpa Vs-rs like to wear?
The scarpas are an aggresive Climbing shoe meaning they are downturned and have a very snug fit.
The midsole has a taught blue ‘powerband’ that keeps the shoe snug to your mid foot and allows more weight to be put in your toes and heels.
You can feel it too, standing on small edges feels so secure in these shoes!
The toe is fairly pointed and will fit those with more D shaped feet the best However I am more like the A shape and they fit my feet incredibly well!
The VS-Rs arent so aggresive or specific that you have to fit a certain shape to wear them, ive seen a lot of different people wearing them Climbing.
As you can see the toe is also COVERED in rubber. This whole patch on the toe is super grippy and allows you to toe hook pretty much anything you want both indoors and out!
If you have narrower feet and like shoes like the ‘LA sportiva Solutions’ these shoes might be a bit too wide, although I can comfortably wear both so you might not have a problem!
Whats bad about the Scarpa VS-R’s?
The scarpa VS-R’s dont have a lot of negatives at all honestly.
In terms of actuall performance there isnt a lot i can complain about with these shoes!
But there is a couple things that have gone wrong with the shoe…
Firstly the loop at the top of the tounge for pulling the shoes on has almost detached.
The stitching has suddenly broken off and its held on with a couple strands!
When this toggle eventually comes off completely it will be a bit inconvinient for us to pull the tounge up our foot.
However ive had these shoes a couple years and even had them resoled so they have lasted much longer than any other pair of my shoes…
And it doesnt effect the performance of the shoe at all, you could just sew it back on 🙂
Secondly, the edges of the rubber are beginning to unpeel.
This again isnt a issue and has no effect on climbing but i can imagine it will be pretty annoying if they continue to peel.
And it might eventually impact our climbing if the toe rubber fully peels off for example.
I have taken these shoes deep water soloing though so this rubber peeling at the edges might possibly be because of the saltwater damaging them.
and since ive been religiously wearing these shoes for 2 years and they have only just started peeling i really cant complain!
You can probably tell I am pretty fond of these climbing shoes!
I have no doubt they are one of the best pair of shoes i have climbed in, and i hope you will give them a try and see for yourself!
and you can check out my ‘La Sportiva’ Review here for a look at the other best Climbing shoe!
Thanks for reading anyway, i hope this helped you make a decision and brought you some value!